Questions
Frequently Asked Questions About Guttering and Downpipes
The questions below come up most often from Hillingdon homeowners, landlords and businesses.
What are the signs my guttering needs attention?
Water sheeting off the front edge of the roof in heavy rain instead of draining to the downpipe, a green or black stain running down the wall below a joint, damp on the internal wall behind the gutter, and plants or grass growing in the run. A gutter that visibly sags between brackets is holding water and will leak at the next joint.
Can a leaking gutter joint be repaired or does the whole gutter need replacing?
A single leaking joint on an otherwise sound uPVC run is usually a repair: a new gasket or union clip and, if needed, lifting the gutter back to a proper fall. Where the plastic has gone brittle across the run, or cast iron has rusted so the joints crack when disturbed, a new run is the better value. We tell you which it is after getting up to it, and quote both where both are realistic.
My gutter overflows in heavy rain. Is that always a gutter fault?
Not always. Often the gutter is fine and the water cannot get away because the outlet, the downpipe or the gully below is blocked with moss, silt and leaves off the roof. We clear the gutter and hopper by hand, rod and flush the downpipe, and clear the gully so the whole path runs free, then check whether the falls need adjusting as well.
Do you clear blocked downpipes?
Yes. We rod and flush downpipes from the top, clear hopper heads and back-inlet gullies, and re-clip any pipe that has come away from the wall. Where a downpipe keeps blocking at the same offset or swan neck we look at whether the layout is the real problem and put it right.
Can you match the gutter on a period or terraced house?
Yes. We identify the existing profile, half-round, square or ogee, and the downpipe type, and match a new run to it in uPVC, cast iron or cast-style aluminium so the frontage still reads as one. On a shared terrace run we will flag where the neighbouring lengths are likely to need the same work.
Do you replace the fascia and soffit behind the gutter?
Yes, and often it is necessary. A gutter is only as sound as the board it fixes to, so where the fascia or bargeboard has rotted we renew or cap it in uPVC and fit vented soffits before the new gutter goes up. That work is set out separately in the written quote.
Does guttering work need scaffolding?
Most repairs and clearances are done from a tower or with ladder access. A full re-run on a two-storey terrace, or work over a conservatory or extension roof, usually needs a scaffold for safe access. The access method and its cost are set out in your written quote before any work starts.
Do you fit gutter guards or leaf protection?
Yes, for runs under trees that block every autumn. We clear and check the gutter first, then fit a mesh or brush guard matched to the profile, keeping the hopper heads and outlets accessible so the run can still be checked.
How does your quoting work for guttering?
We inspect the run and the gully in person, then send a written quote covering material, access, labour and timescale. Where both a repair and a replacement are realistic, we quote both so the choice is yours. All pricing is on request after that visit, because access, the length of the run and the material are the biggest variables. We do not give figures without seeing the job.
Which areas do you cover for guttering and downpipes?
We are based in Hayes and cover the whole London Borough of Hillingdon for guttering and downpipe work, including Uxbridge, Hayes, Ruislip, Eastcote, Ickenham, Hillingdon village, Northwood, Yiewsley, West Drayton and Harefield, plus the bordering Buckinghamshire areas of Iver, Gerrards Cross and Stoke Poges. Call 07949 999411 to check your postcode.